Yoshiborin

Blending into the streetscape of Nezu in Bunkyo City, よし房凛 is a soba restaurant people visit for fragrant handmade noodles and thoughtfully prepared tempura. The classic seiro has a satisfying firmness and smooth texture. Dip the noodles in the broth, or try them with a little salt to bring out their natural sweetness. For a more robust bite and deeper flavour, choose rustic soba and take time to enjoy its layers of flavour.

Tempura is another favourite, with familiar seafood such as prawns and whiting alongside the pleasant surprise of seasonal vegetables and fruit. Chestnuts, Pione grapes and dried persimmons, fried in a light, crisp coating, make for an unusual combination that has surprised diners. At lunchtime, a set pairing seiro with a mini tempura rice bowl or mini oyakodon makes a substantial option.

In the evening, settle in over beer or sake with small dishes such as grilled miso, itawasa and sashimi-style yuba, taking your time over drinks before the soba. To finish, there is rich soba-yu, the hot water used to cook soba, with a consistency like soup, or desserts such as the restaurant's cream puffs.

Queues at lunchtime are not unusual, but the calm dining room offers a welcome place to linger once you are seated. For an evening meal, making a reservation can leave you more time to enjoy the restaurant's soba and other dishes.